01/09/2025
We started the day at about 07:00, after picking up an absolutely cracking pack up from Emerald Lodge that kept us going for most of the day.
We navigated on the day by marking the possible stops on a map, and then downloaded Google Maps so we could use it offline. The stops were all just off the highway, the offline map gave notification of when the stops were coming up.
The road was stunning from the outset. (07:49)
And the left-hand side peaks took on a golden glow.
Crowfoot Glacier (08:00)
Our first stop was at the Crowfoot Glacier. Not for any particular reason except we arrived after about an hours driving. It turned out to be a great spot for a leg stretch.
Bow Lake (08:06)
We stopped at the first layby on Bow Lake, which was only a few km up the road from Crowfoot Glacier.
(I would recommend the second layby).
Peyto Lake (08:30)
This was the first longer stop of the day. It was about 15 minute walk along a good path up to the viewpoint. Even at 08:30 it was getting busy.
It was a great view.
While the focus is usually on the lake, the view up the valley was equally glorious.
Waterfowl Lake (09:21)
This was another leg stretch with a view.
The views while driving were amazing.
Mistaya Canyon (09:30)
There was about a 10 minute walk from the car park to the canyon. This is more a short gorge rather than a canyon.
It was only a few minutes to walk to the end of the canyon.
Looking back up the canyon the layers of the stone are clearly visible.
The road then drops towards the Saskatchewan River.
Howse Pass Viewpoint (10:20)
The viewpoint was quiet, but had picnic tables, toilets, a walk with a view, and a large car park.
It was different to most of the other stops as there was no definite focus, just great views in every direction.
The road ran alongside the wide river bed for a while, where the river only looked a trickle.
Weeping Wall Viewpoint (11:15)
The weeping wall got its reputation from the number of waterfalls on the rockface, though at the end of the summer they were not as evident.
But I really liked the view from the edge of the carpark. Being able to see the valley from river level.
The Big Bend
This is the opportunity to look back the way that you had come. We chose not to stop as the sun was directly in our faces.
Parker Ridge (11:50)
We had decided that we wanted to do this walk so we were not “windscreen tourists” and saw something a little away from the road.
When we first stopped there was a fine view from the car park
It was a steady walk, but very hot.
After about 40 minutes we were getting close to the top of the walk, and could just make out the car park below.
The path then levelled out and led into another valley.
The view was spectacular: the Saskatchewan Glacier, the terminal lake and the valley.
We did sit for a while to enjoy the view.
The photos all had a haze about them, which was our first encounter with the wildfire smoke.
On the way down, I couldn’t resist a quick panorama shot.
On such a hot day the walk took longer than expected, and took a lot out of us.
Icefield Discovery Centre (15:15)
This was a very welcome stop for a hot coffee, a flushing toilet and running hot water.
We had missed our time slot for the Icefields Explorer which had been included in our travel package. Having seen and walked on glaciers in Iceland, Norway, Switzerland and New Zealand, I thought the experience looked thoroughly underwhelming.
It was strange to see just how far they went onto the ice to a bus park, with people in the foreground who had walked 15 minutes from the car park. The ice was filthy.
Like other attractions around the Icefields, it is obvious that they were developed primarily due to their accessibility. The equally large bus park was in the other direction.
I do think the ice sheet to the left of the accessible area of the glacier was glorious.
After nearly 9 hours on the road, we were getting tired and decided we needed to focus on getting to the hotel.
We had planned to do the “Toe of the Glacier” walk but this was the first thing we skipped.
Tangle Creek Falls
We had originally planned to stop at Tangle Creek Falls, but we had decided to skip this aswell.
Fortunately, we were stopped at the crossing and I managed a quick shot out of the car window.
Sunwapta Falls (16:20)
We had hoped for a walk at the falls but it became a quick photostop.
Athabasca Falls (16:50)
The trickle of a river had become a raging torrent.
Then the water is forced through a narrow gorge, where it has eroded the different strata of rock at different rates.
Beyond the falls, the valley widens significantly.
The road from the falls passes through miles of charred forest devastated by the 2024 wildfires. But with significant new growth evident.
And then to Jasper (17:40)
The Icefields Parkway is one incredible road that lived upto the hype. We missed the Icefield Explorer, but it did not look a patch on our experience in New Zealand.
Setting off early we had no problem with parking anywhere, and for long stretches of road we didn’t see other cars.
It was a long day and maybe we were over ambitious. There are many formal stops, there are many walks and then there are the views from the road. For the most part we stuck to our plan until we ran out of steam. After the Discovery Centre, we skipped some of the planned stops, and cut the others short, as there was just so much to see.
We didn’t stop at three places Goats and Glaciers viewpoint, Toe of the Glacier Hike, Tangle Creek Falls, and cut short the stops Sunwapta and Athanasca Falls. I am glad we took the time to fully appreciate the Parker Ridge Trail, which was a glorious few hours surrounded by so much beautiful scenery.
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